Alpine crossing
The Tongariro Alpine crossing is apparently one of the most popular and well known hikes in New Zealand. My last two hikes (Roys and Mueller) were on the South island, this one is on the North island. Because I had a day spare, I also got in a bit of the Tongariro North Circuit as well.
Both of these are trails in the Tongariro National Park under the towering volcanoes of Mt Ngauruhoe, Mt Tongariro and Mt Ruapheu.
I was able to book a night in the campsite at the Mangatepopo Hut. So I started from Whakapapa Village, headed up to Taranki Falls and then over to the Mangatepopo Hut where I set up camp and spent the night. The hike to the falls was lovely, lots of beautiful forest and streams with a good waterfall. The rest of the Northern Circuit I found quite boring - Mt Ngauruhoe just got slowly closer as the rest of the scenery barely changed.
At the time the website said “The section of track between Whakapapa Village and Mangatepopo Hut is not up to our usual Great Walk standards”. The standard was much higher than any hike I’ve been on, except maybe Stanley Park. Certainly higher than the conditions of say, the West Coast Trail. My plantar fasciitis was the worse its been at the end of this day, I hobbled around the campsite.
The next day I headed up to the Alpine Crossing and the hike went from nice to epic. I loaded up with some drugs and topical muscle relaxant and went for it. Unfortunately there is a road near the Mangatepopo Hut and at first light hordes of hikes were disgorged from buses and my quite hike turned into a bit of conga line for a while.
The hike goes up a ridge of volcanic rock up to a crater and just starts to become amazing. The crater with volcanoes on either side is something to behold, then you climb up another ridge next to the red crater. And that’s where the temperature started to drop rapidly and the wind picked up. Seriously windy. It was at the point where a slight change in direction and I’d feel the wind hit me and my backpack and almost knock me off me feet.
On one side is the red crater, with plumes of steam coming off it. At the top you greeted with multiple emerald colour lakes, more steam plumes an epic views of volcanoes in front of you. For someone who isn’t good with vertical drops, I wasn’t worried 👍
Coming down was a long hike and not too exciting, but there were amazing views of Lake Taupo and it ended with lush forests. By the end my foot was very sore and I was really glad to see my wife (who also was nice enough to do the shuttle).
Would recommend and do again with a few of caveats:
- When the rangers talk about bad weather at the top believe them. It turned very fast for me. I can imagine a lot of people get into trouble on this one. It starts nice and sunny at the bottom, but changes very rapidly up there.
- Because of the aforementioned changes in weather, please bring appropriate gear. Many day hikers were not well equipped.
- It will be crowded, live with it.
We spent the evening in geo-thermal hot springs and my foot couldn’t have been happier.